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Why US import duty differs so much between cotton and polyester

As of 2026-10-23 (USITC HTS 2026 Revision 21), the general rate on knit cotton T-shirts is 16.5%, versus 32% for synthetic T-shirts such as polyester, a 15.5 percentage-point gap. Totals for China are 36.5% and 52%, respectively.

The same T-shirt shipment, different duty

Assume 1,000 units from China, with FOB and customs value both $5.00 per unit, for a shipment value of $5,000.00. Hold the other classification conditions constant and compare T-shirts & tank tops.

Duty only; excludes MPF, HMF and freight
FiberUS HTS codeGeneral rateChina totalShipment dutyDuty per unit
Cotton6109.10.0016.5%36.5%$1,825.00$1.83
Synthetic, including polyester6109.90.1032%52%$2,600.00$2.60

At the assumed equal price, synthetic costs $0.78 more in duty per unit, or $775.00 per shipment. Compare fabric costs and selling prices separately.

Differences use unrounded amounts, then round independently to cents; subtracting displayed amounts can differ slightly.

Where the cotton–synthetic gap is largest

Ranked by synthetic minus cotton general rate among 76 catalogue items with both fibers and purely ad-valorem rates. Ties at the cutoff are included. Items with a per-kilogram charge need a weight assumption and are excluded from this ranking.

General-rate gap, not relative percentage increase
ItemCottonSyntheticGap (percentage points)
Bodysuits10.8%32%21.2
Men's woven swimwear7.5%27.8%20.3
Men's knit suits9.4%28.2%18.8
Women's overcoats, long coats & raincoats8.9%27.7%18.8
Women's woven jackets, windbreakers & anoraks8.9%27.7%18.8
Men's overcoats, long coats & raincoats9.4%27.7%18.3
Men's woven jackets, windbreakers & anoraks9.4%27.7%18.3
Men's woven blazers & suit jackets9.4%27.3%17.9
Women's woven blazers & suit jackets9.4%27.3%17.9

Why rates differ, and how to treat blends

The US schedule assigns different HTS subheadings and general rates to different fibers. Here cotton starts at 16.5%, adds 7.5% + 12.5%, and totals 36.5%. An HS classification needs construction, fiber and garment details, not just “T-shirt”.

Ordinary blends generally follow the fiber that predominates by weight over each other fiber; it need not exceed half of the total. Synthetic here includes polyester; artificial fibers such as viscose are a separate category. Equal weights, fiber-grouping rules and special products require the tariff notes rather than this shortcut.

Open the duty calculator

Sources and data date

StoreCalc generated this guide on 2026-10-23 using USITC HTS 2026 Revision 21 and its calculators.

Rates come from the relevant HTS subheadings and chapter 99; amounts use the duty calculator's shipment formula. Classification depends on the actual product.

USITC Harmonized Tariff Schedule

HTS chapter 99, U.S. notes 20 and 52

USITC HTS Section XI, note 2 and subheading note 2